That same evening I went to
the caravansary, and the next morning, 18th July, was on the road
before sunrise.
Mr. Mansur was to the last very hospitable. He not only gave me a
letter to a Persian living in Sauh-Bulak, but also provided me with
bread for the journey, some melons, cucumbers, and a small bottle of
sour milk. The latter was particularly acceptable to me, and I
would advise every traveller to remember this nourishing and
refreshing drink.
Sour milk is put into a small bag of thick linen, the watery part
filters through, and the solid part can be taken out with a spoon,
and mixed with water as desired. In the hot season, indeed, it
dries into cheese on the fourth or fifth day, but this also tastes
very well, and in four or five days you come to places where the
supply may be renewed.
On the first day we passed continually through narrow valleys
between lofty mountains. The roads were exceedingly bad, and we
were frequently obliged to cross over high mountains to pass from
one valley into another. These stony valleys were cultivated as
much as was possible.
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