I was fresh and active, although during these fifteen days I had
only twice had a hot meal--the ink-coloured lamb soup at Kerku and
Ervil; although I had been obliged to remain day and night in the
same clothes, and had not even an opportunity of once changing my
linen, not to say anything of the terrific heat, the continual
riding, and other fatigues.
I first dismounted at the caravansary, and then procured a guide to
the English Vice-consul, Mr. Rassam, who had already prepared a room
for me, as he had been previously informed of my coming by a letter
from Major Rawlinson, at Baghdad.
I first visited the town, which, however, does not present any very
remarkable features. It is surrounded by fortified works, and
contains 25,000 inhabitants, among which there are scarcely twelve
Europeans. The bazaars are extensive, but not in the least degree
handsome; between them lie several coffee-stalls and some chans. I
found the entrances to all the houses narrow, low, and furnished
with strong gates. These gates are relics of former times, when the
people were always in danger from the attacks of enemies.
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