Their natural good sense
had deterred them from visiting me on the day of my arrival, when
they knew I was fatigued by the long ride. I would willingly have
excused their visit today also, for neither the rich nor poor Arabs
have much idea of cleanliness. They, moreover, would put the little
dirty children into my arms or on my lap, and I did not know how to
relieve myself of this pleasure. Many of them had Aleppo boils, and
others sore eyes and skin diseases. After the women and children
had left, my host came. He was, at least, clean in his dress, and
conducted himself with more politeness.
On the 2nd of July I left Hilla at sunrise, and went on, without
stopping, to the Khan Scandaria (sixteen miles), where I remained
some hours; and then went the same day as far as Bir-Zanus, sixteen
miles further. About an hour after midnight I again halted, and
took a soldier to accompany me. We had scarcely proceeded four or
five miles from the khan when we perceived a very suspicious noise.
We stopped, and the servant told me to be very quiet, so that our
presence might not be detected.
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